I’m just this guy, you know?

  • 10 Posts
  • 37 Comments
Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 12th, 2023

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  • I have an ecobee thermostat that I manage locally over WiFi using the HomeKit integration, but I’d stop short of recommending it to new users.

    1. Ecobee used to support developer access to their cloud API for controlling the thermostat and collecting efficiency data, but stopped issuing new API access tokens in the last couple of years. They have no plans currently to reopen developer access. If you have a token then the ecobee integration works fine, but if you don’t you’re stuck with HomeKit.
    2. The thermostat requires 24V from the furnace to run the display and wifi stack. They provide an adapter you can install if you have available free leads at bother ends of the thermostat control cable. I had to splice a new wire onto the 24V transformer in my furnace since it didn’t have a 24V common terminal on the control block. It wasn’t hard to do in the end, but it was a lot of research.
    3. Some advanced thermostat features require the app. I am not sure whether the app uses cloud or local control when on the same WiFi.
    4. Not all features are available through the HomeKit integration. I can change the thermostat mode among Auto/Heat/Cool/Off, manage the blower fan mode and manage the heat/cool set points.
    5. Data logging. The damned thing does log activity back home, and the data is only available in the app or on thr web portal.

    Other than that, Mrs Lincoln, how was the show? I haven’t been unhappy with the ecobee. The HomeKit integration works fine, and I get enough data from the native HA history to track and manage my energy demand. I shied away from Honeywell because my last Honeywell thermostat-- the one I used just before the thermostat I replaced with the ecobee-- tended to cycle my furnace too fast during cold snaps, and it would put the system into thermal protect mode. There was no way to widen the hysteresis (or modify the duty cycle) except by manually setting the temp high, run the house up to that temp, and then lower the setpoint and let the house take longer to cool.

    ETA: the ecobee a decent thermostat and I’m happy enough with it overall. It has “spousal approval” accreditation as well. I wish it checked more boxes for me*, but it was essentially free through a power utility program. Its a worthy upgrade for me, but YMMV.

    * namely, Z* protocol local control and continued cloud API access





  • For the F-droid enabled users, it seems there’s a Syncthing app in the Termux repos:

    ~ $ apt show syncthing
    Package: syncthing
    Version: 1.28.0
    Maintainer: @termux
    Installed-Size: 26.4 MB
    Homepage: https://syncthing.net/
    Download-Size: 7857 kB
    APT-Sources: https://packages.termux.dev/apt/termux-main stable/main aarch64 Packages
    Description: Decentralized file synchronization
    



  • The Volt is a hybrid gas & electric. The gas engine is there in part to charge the battery, and in part to power the electric drivetrain.

    Under normal drive conditions, the gas engine short-cycles and doesn’t really come up to operating temp, which gums up the EGR valve causing the valve to pull too much current and start blowing fuses that power other critical parts of the battery charge control circuit. Left us stranded on an interstate this past spring until I could limp it to an auto parts store off the next exit to buy a replacement fuse. It ate two more before we could get home.

    (edit: the OEM part is no longer manufactured, and what OEM stock is left is unobtainable. What’s left is remanufactured, Chinese aftermarket, or a scam. Install at your own peril.)

    The workarounds to disable or bypass the EGR (for now) can cause other potential issues with the engine in the long run. Simply disconnecting the EGR keeps it from blowing fuses, but then the car isn’t road legal in many states because it fails emissions. Also, the EGR is part of the combustion engine’s cooling system, so not recirculating hot crank case gases works the rest of the cooling system harder, and potentially damages the pistons & cylinders.

    The whole situation is a mess. Thankfully we have a second vehicle that’s a regular gas engine, so we use that one for distance driving, and can just use this one for around-town driving while we figure out what to do next with it.


  • The OEM part is, as the service manager at the dealer put it, “on intergalactic back order.”

    They don’t make the OEM part any more, and anyone who has new stock isn’t selling it to other dealers. You might be able to find a Chinese version, but if you have a warranty or service plan, you’re rolling the dice with it.

    It’ll be a class action suit one day, I feel it in me bones. 🏴‍☠️







  • Yes… -ish. Hurricanes are, in effect, a big heat engine that helps to distribute heat towards the poles from the equator. It is one of Nature’s more efficient heat transfer mechanisms, among natural systems.

    Hurricanes both draw heat from the ocean surface and the atmospheric boundary layer, and eject it into the upper air through convection and the latent heat released through condensation at the expense of warming the upper-mid layers of the atmosphere… The surface level winds mix the sea surface waters into deeper layers, cooling the surface at the expense of warming the uppermost marine layers.

    You don’t, however, get anything for free. On a global scale the heat doesn’t so much dissipate as it does just redistribute. The heat is all still there, it’s just less concentrated in the equatorial surface-level atmospheric and marine layers by being distributed into upper atmospheric layers, deeper marine layers, and higher latitudes. The average temperature integrated across the entire volume of affected regions might be net lower, but not by enough to matter, and the system is still overall warmer than its long term average.