A few days ago, I got myself a Canon EOS 700D DSLR camera along with a Canon EFS 18-55mm lens for about $160. Until now, I’ve only ever used point-and-shoots, like my smartphone or my “Kodak” Pixpro AZ401.

So, it’s basically the first time I get to properly play around with the exposure triangle and all that good, manual stuff. I already love this camera, because despite the low cost, you can get great shots in auto mode out of the box, but it’s also very versatile in professional photography. All that, and I still haven’t even gotten into editing raw photos; this is just the JPG!

This particular photo of a garden shed was shot with:

ISO: 6400
Exposure: 1/395s
Aperture: f/14
Focal length: 46mm
Resolution: 5184x3456

From what I’ve heard, those settings aren’t ideal, especially the high ISO for that much light. Does anybody have some general tips for me or resources to check out?

By the way, I also just installed Magic Lantern. That’s some great stuff. Oh, and also - if anyone has a good way to connect it as a webcam on Linux, that’s also very welcome since EOS Utility doesn’t work and Gphoto2 is very low-res. The first thing I didn’t get properly running on Linux!

  • ianovic69@feddit.ukEnglish
    0·
    5 months ago

    As mentioned in other comments, you can use a more appropriate aperture here because f14 is too small and you’ll suffer from diffraction as a result.

    The reason it’s a problem, is similar to when you squint your eyes. The light gets spread more than is ideal and the image will have reduced sharpness.

    Ideally, you should try not to go beyond f11, as that’s usually where most lenses will start to become effected.

    It’s worth noting that despite this, if you need a small aperture then don’t be afraid to use it. The reduction in sharpness won’t really notice until you get to larger print sizes, such as 1 x 1.5 metres.

    Even then, it’s much better to have a great photo without ultimate sharpness, than a super sharp photo that’s boring or just bad. If you have the time, such as with non moving subjects, none of these things should happen. If your subject is moving, things get complicated quickly.

    Sorry to go on a bit, I just wanted to bring some context and info to the subject of diffraction, as it’s an important one, but once you know the whys and wherefores it’s easy be aware of and incorporate into your workflow.

    • 𝙁𝙌𝙌𝘿@lemmy.ohaa.xyzOPEnglish
      0·
      5 months ago

      Alright, thanks man :)

      I think at the time of taking the photo, I might have still believed that a larger F-Stop means the aperture is wider. But this comment section has taught me a lot since then!