So I was just wondering what is, in your opinion the best Resin printer to get that just works like how Bambu printers in the FDM space just seem to work.

Or

Just what resin printer would you recommend purchasing?

I have a mars 3 and looking to upgrade to maybe a Saturn 4 ultra because I want a bigger build plate and auto leveling seems nice so it’s one less step I need to do.

  • Boozilla@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    I won’t claim it’s the equivalent of the Bambu Labs FDM printer, because I’ve never done FDM printing.

    On top of that, I’m only familiar with the one resin printer I’ve used.

    Anyway, it’s an Anycubic Photon Mono X 4k. I’ve had really good luck with it, and I’ve printed over 200 miniatures and other things. I’ve had some failed prints but they were almost always my fault for doing something dumb, and there haven’t been that many overall. I’m guessing easily less than 5%.

    I wouldn’t recommend the exact same model as mine, because they have newer ones (like an 8k version of mine and some others).

    But I would definitely recommend the Anycubic Photon line as worth looking into. Read some reviews & watch some videos.

    Good luck!

    • ClydapusGotwald@lemmy.worldOP
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      1 month ago

      Yeah I’m looking really at any cubic mono 5s pro or the Saturn 4 ultra. As my two top contenders for upgrades.

  • j4k3@lemmy.worldM
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    1 month ago

    All of them except the Prusa. They are all proprietary schemes to get you to subscribe to software. There are hacked sub par tool chains to attempt to use them freely, but no one really does it in practice enough that you see them using the thing regularly.

    All high resolution displays are proprietary and completely undocumented publicly. Every display is different in how to communicate with it and they change constantly where reverse engineering one will do nothing of value. The next batch of displays manufactured will change in some fundamental way that means the previous reverse engineering efforts must be redone from scratch. Reverse engineering displays and their protocol is a PITA and usually ruins a display or few. You need complex jigs to handle them outside of their final packaged assembly or things break extremely easily. I’ve messed with some smaller simple graphics and LCD displays and reverse engineering, and it is not fun. So you’re unlikely to ever see one of the proprietary resin printers reverse engineered for use with open source software. So full ownership is not an option. It is basically just like bambu but worse. As far as I’m concerned, the Prusa is the only resin printer for sale because I am not for sale/exploitive manipulation, or renting stuff for a one time payment of an equivalent cost of ownership. The Form Labs stuff is probably the prosumer level go-to.

  • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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    1 month ago

    What you’re asking for is going to be way overpriced. Heygears is likely the pro-sumer brand you’re looking for.

      • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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        1 month ago

        Yeah, but it’s the only hold your hand experience for resin printing that isn’t even more expensive. I honestly think the hold your hand experience is unnecessary for resin printing. It’s already way easier than FDM.

        Stick with Elegoo, they’re great.

        • ClydapusGotwald@lemmy.worldOP
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          1 month ago

          FDM seems easier tbh. I just slice and throw it on the printer I have a Creality k1 atm and it just goes. I don’t need to worry much about anything. I’d say resin has a bit more to dial in. And clean up is another thing. But I agree probably sticking with elegoo.

          • roofuskit@lemmy.world
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            1 month ago

            https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/download/the-cones-of-calibration

            Combine that with the multiple exposure function of UV tools and calibration is dead simple. Way way way less complicated to get the best quality out of resin compared to FDM.

            And a wash and cure is going to be money well spent. I’ve tried a bunch of cheaper alternatives and nothing compared to the simplicity and functionality of the wash and cure system. I also only use alcohol in mine because it’s easy to put outside in disposable trays to evaporate and then when the leftover resin in the bottom cures it can just be thrown away.